Monday 22 April 2019

Peak District - Glory of Derbyshire countryside

We left on a Friday morning and drove through annoying working day traffic in the City of London towards North West but as we approached outskirts, I started noticing interesting shop names. There was a shop called Chinese Laundry, which was yet to open so I could not make out what product or service the shop sold. But if it were an eatery, why was it named "Laundry"? If it was a laundry, why is the ethnicity highlighted? As I pondered, we passed by a pub called "Oh my dog" and that made us laugh. Then we passed by another pub called "Bird in hand" and Lakshman immediately said that there may be a neighbour called "Bush" and we already know who's worth how much. Just as we left the suburbs for the motorway, we saw a final pub called "The Famous Cock". Enough said on the topic I suppose.

After a few hours drive and couple of stops at Services along the motorway, we reached Carsington Water, a big lake with a lot of birdlife and walking routes around the water. 






The information centre was nearly perfect giving all the information one needs to go around such a place. We decided to have a light lunch at the cafe before exploring the area. We took one of the walking routes and came across a bird watching hide. A hide is a small shed built at the bank of a lake or marsh, usually camouflaged with plants around it, so as to not scare the birds away. It usually has strategically placed viewing windows facing the lakes or marshlands. The view from this hide was perfect, both of the big beautiful lake and the leafless tree full of cormorants.



There was also a small wooded area which we could view from a distance meant for smaller birds. There was a big bird feeder filled with grains and we saw the cutest little birds whizz back and forth taking little bites on their way. Lakshman was looking for Robins but my favourite breed was blue tit, the original "Angry bird".



After we climbed up a watching tower, we also sighted a hare that put on a brief hopping show.



We met a friendly elderly couple and when we expressed our disappointment about not having sighted any ospreys, they told us about Rutland reservoir that was currently hosting ospreys. After thanking the lovely couple, we finally left Carsington Water and drove to Buxton where we were staying for the next two days. The scenery changed dramatically to rolling meadows and farms once we entered Peak District. The Queen's head hotel was right at the town centre and after a pleasant dinner at an Indian restaurant nearby, we retired for the night in the lovely room.



We started the next day with a great breakfast at the Queen's Head pub which included a vegetarian lentil sausage that tasted nostalgically like Masala Vadai. After breakfast we drove via the gorgeous country side roads and the dangerous albeit short Winnats pass road which sloped very steeply and then we reached a town called Hope. We stopped by a hiking equipment store meaning to ask the staff for directions and ended up doing some impromptu thermal wear shopping. Once we had donned our new jumpers, we drove to the parking lot of Stanage Edge. Seeing the other tourists unpacking odd equipment from their car boots, we realised that this was a favourite spot with mountaineers due to the rocky edge of the hill.


We took the tame and short hiking route to reach the top of the hill and wonderful views ensued. There could really be no better motivation to a lazy person like me to take on an uphill task. As far as eyes could see, there were meadows and greenery. The clouds were adding to the drama of the view by scattering in attractive patterns. We spent the whole morning there walking along the edge of the hill and watching the activities of the mountaineers.







We left Stanage edge after noon and drove to Lady Bower reservoir. After a small walk in an uphill green path by a stream, we reached the reservoir and enjoyed looking at the views and the weird circular well by the edge of the reservoir.





After driving around for a while looking for a place to eat, we zeroed in on the Yorkshire Inn. The sandwiches, thick cut chips and soup were delicious and we were comfortably full with nice food. Too full perhaps because after we parked near our next stop, Derwent reservoir, we had to take a nap in the car! Well, it was a holiday, so relaxation and activity should get equal importance.

Derwent reservoir was lovely as well. 


After enjoying the view for a few minutes, we drove through the scenic and winding Snake's Pass to a town called Bakewell. It was a small town famous for being the birthplace of the Bakewell pie. We decided to stop by a sunlit canal full of bird life and eat some ice cream. 


Watching the familiar water birds struggle to swim upstream was very relaxing. In Bakewell, we passed by three or four wedding groups easily identifiable mainly due to the bride's dress. We had one of those moments when you can take the Indian out of India but cannot take India out of the Indian. We turned towards eachother and asked if it was an auspicious day for weddings?! (Muhurthama?) After Bakewell, we returned to Buxton and ate take away pizza in our room for dinner.

The next day, we checked out of Queen's head hotel after another nice breakfast. After some struggle with directions, we drove to a remote village called Hollinsclough in Staffordshire. This was the starting point of Chrome Hill hike. After a long walk passing farms, a kissing gate and a wooden bridge over a stream, we finally reached the base of chrome hill. 



There were two peaks we could climb. The first one we chose was too steep and the path was covered with loose gravel. We decided to turn back after having climbed nearly quarter of our way up as it seemed very risky and though we liked adventure, we were conservative enough to want to prevent accidents. I slid down the grassy side of the path most of the way down rather than unsteadily walk down the gravelly path. Later we came to know that this hill was called the Von Matterhorn of Peak District, I saw the similarity in shape but it appears to be an exaggerated comparison. Or may be I was bitter as I had quit this hike mid-way. 



We cleaned ourselves of the mud from the slide at a fresh stream and we decided to have a go at the hill opposite. The path was better laid out and it seemed to have a lower upward gradient. After climbing to what we had initially thought was the top of that hill, we realised that we could not see its full size from the angle that we were standing in, at the foothill. This second hill was twice the size of the first one we had quit on. We put in renewed effort and climbed to the top of the hill at last. This turned out to be a view that will definitely stay with me forever and I can't find words beautiful enough to describe it.





Lakshman decided to pursue some bees for macro photography and once I had my fill of the spectacular view, I settled down with my book (Gone Girl). It was a dreamy spot to read with the sun on my face and wind in my hair. All in all, it was a wonderful morning.



The walk downhill was easy in terms of effort but a different type of challenge altogether as it involved dodging the plentiful sheep shit on the ground!


Then we drove on through small towns, stopping only for a light snack and reached Rutland Waters near Leicestershire.  It was early evening when we reached but we were determined to see ospreys as this area was famous for them. The Rutland water reservoir was a massive property that would probably be worth spending an entire day in. Since we only had a couple of hours, we headed straight to the Osprey hide.




Here I have to mention how impressed we were with the wildlife conservation efforts and facilities to wildlife enthusiasts. The hide was staffed with two ladies who showed the tourists the ospreys through professional binoculars set up on tripods. There was also a TV in the hide that would telecast live from a camera mounted on top of the hide focused on the osprey's nest about hundred metres away. Through the binoculars, we saw the osprey hunt a fish and eat it. It was like something out of a National Geographic video. I used to think that swans and ducks were my favourite birds with their slender curved necks and beautiful plumage. I did not know much about ospreys before this trip but after the visit, I was an admirer of its majesty, elegance and the sort of awesomeness that only predators can command. Unfortunately due to significant distance, we could not get a clear photo of the osprey despite Lakshman's photographic skills. But he tried!






We had finally slipped into a sad mood that our trip was coming to an end. We stopped for dinner at a Wetherspoon in Oakham village and drove back home. We got back home after midnight on Sunday and we had to go to work next morning, but after the action packed trip we had experienced, we felt we needed a few days to rest and recover from the vacation. It was a short and sweet trip. The best moments of the trip were when we sighted the osprey and when we were dazzled by the spectacular views of Derbyshire country side that will stay with us forever. :-)

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